Gajah Biru Bungalows
We stayed at a lovely boutique hotel just a bit away from the centre of the town. Walkable to everything, but far enough away for the quiet and privacy we crave. I had an afternoon nap on the couch of our private veranda every afternoon. Loved it.
Trekking
While walking through town trying to find the start of the popular “Campuchan Ridge Walk”, we got a bit lost and ended up on another trek at the suggestion of a local that was selling his guiding services. What we thought was going to be a short 2km walk with a restaurant and massage place at the end, ended up being a strenuous and at times dangerous 3.5hr trek through some beautiful fields and remote local villages. The guide kept telling us it was only 15min more. A little bit of grumpiness on this trek, but it was a spontaneous and unique experience. Boy did we need a massage after this day!
Temples, rice terraces and coffee tour
One day we hired a car and guide to take us to the famous Tegalalang Rice Terraces, local temples and other area attractions. While at the rice terraces, I did the “Bali swing”, which is a huge swing on the edge of a steep drop. I did a baby Bali swing, death was unlikely if I fell off. Very fun. We visited a couple of temples as well, including a sacred holy water temple. Locals and tourists alike submerge in the pool and are showered by fountains of cleansing holy water. We also took a luwak coffee tour. This is the most expensive and unethical coffee in the world. Luwak coffee is made from partially digested coffee cherries, eaten and defecated by the “Luwak” aka Asian palm civet (similar to a cat). These animals are force fed the coffee beans in captivity, a very sad life for these poor creatures. Approx cost to buy $35/cup, $100/lb.
Island of Nusa Lembongan
The 30min fast ferry to Nusa Lembongan was an experience itself. Without a dock or pier at Sanur beach (island of Bali) or at Lembongan island, these fast boats load/unload passengers, luggage and cargo from the beach. Passengers wade into the water up to the thigh to access the boat. Our boat was small, approx 20 passengers with luggage strapped to the roof of the boat. Water sprayed in the windows as the boat crashed through the ocean swells. Turquoise waters surround this remote island paradise, with surfers, stand-up paddle boarders (SUP), and snorkelers in the bay as we approached.
Tigerlillys Bungalows
Our accommodation is my favourite of any holiday so far. We had a private two story thatched roof bungalow with outdoor bathroom, veranda, living room and shared pool. My yoga place is directly beside our bungalow, you can hear the classes in progress from over the fence dividing us.
Mangrove forest
The north part of island is covered in mangrove forest, a very cool spot for SUP, kayaking, and guided boat tours. Our guide ‘poled’ our tiny boat through the mangroves for about 30min. Very unique experience. We followed this with a fish lunch at a beachside warung (local joint).
Born to be wild
Exploring the island via scooter is really the best way to get around. The big yellow bridge (pedestrian & scooters only) connects the islands of Nusa Lembongan and the smaller Nusa Ceningan. We scootered our way around both islands stopping at interesting viewpoints and beach clubs. We took a pit stop to lounge in some beach chairs with some refreshments, partook in the water swing and ocean hammock. We also came across a ceremonial cremation in the town plaza. Dead guy on the bonfire for all to see.
Catamaran sailing - BEST DAY EVER!
With nobody else signed up, we ended up with this 63ft luxury catamaran to ourselves for the day. A crew of four fed us, waited on us hand and foot, gave us guided snorkeling at nearby island of Nusa Penida, and even gave on-board massages on the deck after lunch. They also included a 1hr massages at the fancy resort spa at the end of the cruise. I’m definitely spoiled for regular life after this day.
Canggu
Villa Sar’ja
Villa Sar’ja was our home for 4 nights in this laidback hippie surfing beach town on the main island of Bali. Very eclectic little bungalow with outdoor bathroom, veranda beds for shady naps, outdoor kitchen and infinity pool with sun loungers. It was nicely located nestled around rice terraces, a 5min walk to my yoga place, and an easy scooter ride into the main part of town.
Beach walking, pool flopping, book reading
We spent some time each day just sauntering down the beach, waves lapping at our toes, and watching the surfing. We spent quite a bit of time chilling at our villa, book reading and pool flopping. Ranch Relaxo. While scootering around one day, we stumbled on a cat shelter open to feline enthusiast visitors. We sat in a room full of meowy cats eager for a snuggly lap sit. We were in cat heaven!
Yoga
For me, a big part of the draw to Bali is the yoga culture. I attended a yoga class everyday, and advanced my practice quite a bit on this trip. Yogis and shalas abound all over Bali. I found the practices to be more orthodox that my ‘urban’ studio back at home. One of the yoga instructors closed the practice one day with a guided laughing session. First belly laughs, then high pitched laughs, then everyone in freestyle laughter. Very cathartic. One class I went to focused on the subtle minutia of the most basic yoga poses I’ve been practicing for years. I also attended my first Ashtanga class. I can report that ashtanga is a militant, structured sequence of poses for advanced yogis with fast transitions between serious Gumby contortions and cirque de soleil acrobatics. I stayed with the first stage of most of the postures. One class I attended had us in headstands for 5min, which I’m proud to say I accomplished! The shalas I visited were amazing. Thatched roof buildings with open sides or floor to ceiling windows all around. Some with views, most in a garden setting. Fans to cool the 30’ heat, sounds of roosters, birds chirping, dogs barking, courtyard fountains, and neighbourhood stirrings can be heard above the soothing yoga music. “Yoga Barn” in Ubud is a massive sprawling compound in a garden setting with multiple shalas each accommodating around 100 mats, a cafe, treatment rooms, yoga teacher training, workshops, gift shop, etc.
Massage
I had a spa treatment almost everyday on this trip. It’s so cheap here, I decided to make it a mission to indulge. $8-$10 for 1hr massage - yes please! Massage, facials, body scrub, body wrap, reflexology, and more.
Traffic
As in many foreign places, traffic flows like water here. Vehicles just fill in the open spaces, with only a casual regard to the painted centre line of the road. Congestion was CRAZY in Ubud, the town has far outgrown it’s narrow little roads causing total log jams.
Other random musings and observations.....
- young kids riding scooters around town (~8yrs)
- interesting cultural mix of Hindu and Muslim faiths
- small groups of kids parading the streets in dragon costumes playing music instruments, accepting ‘offerings’ as they passed
- Balinese homes and businesses devote a lot of resources to preparing and placing ‘offerings” in their spaces. “Offerings” appear to include a little banana leaf tray with flowers, a piece of food, and burning incense stick. Every home and business has a temple where amoung other spots, they place their offerings, some temples are more elaborate than others.
